Section 1 Textile Fibers

The wool yarn used for knitting sweaters is made of textile fibers after a certain process. Textile fibers can be divided into natural fibers and chemical fibers. Generally, their lengths are more than 1CM, and they all belong to polymer compounds.

1. Natural fibers. Natural fibers are divided into the following two categories:

A. Plant fibers (ie cellulose fibers), such as cotton (COTTON), linseed linen (LINEN), flax (RAMIE), etc. Cotton is the world's largest natural textile fiber. Cotton for related treatment, such as desizing, scouring, mercerizing, etc. When bleaching cotton, it is treated with oxidizing agent, such as NaCLO, H2O2, NaCLO2, and dyeing can be dyed with direct dyes, reactive dyes, vat dyes, sulfur dyes, insoluble azo dyes, etc. .

B. Animal fiber (ie protein fiber). Such as wool (Wool), rabbit hair (Angora), camel hair (Camelhair), mohair (also called Mohair), silk (SILK), etc., wool and silk and other animals Fiber is composed of linear proteins; wool protein is keratin, and silk protein includes sericin and silk fibroin.

The structure and properties of wool: wool from outside to inside are scales, cortex, and pith; but young wool has no pith; wool will shrink greatly when rubbed in water, which is due to the repeated action of scales by mechanical force Caused by interspersed and entangled with each other. Long-term boiling of wool in water will cause partial hydrolysis of wool, which is more prone to main chain hydrolysis and disulfide bond breakage than in steam. Wool is not resistant to alkalis and oxidants. Oxidation with chlorine It can partially destroy the scale layer, so treating with oxychloride can prevent wool from shrinking, and can also improve dyeability. In steam or in hot water, the wool has a large range of setting through tension, and there is over-shrinking at high temperature. Dyes available for wool are acid mordant, acid dye, acid mordant.

2, Chemical fiber: Chemical fiber is divided into man-made fiber and synthetic fiber.

A. Man-made fiber is made of natural cellulose or protein as raw material, and chemically processed into regenerated cellulose fiber or protein fiber, such as viscose fiber, cupro fiber and regenerated protein fiber.

Rayon is the earliest man-made cellulose fiber in the world. It is processed into viscose with wood or cotton linters (fine staple cotton fibers that cannot be used for spinning) as raw materials, and then reeled into filaments by reeling. Silk has excellent strength and small stretchability. The chemical properties are basically similar to other plant fibers. The reeled silk is smooth, but it can also be reprocessed into rayon with different luster and feel, such as: Yasi ( Dull Rayon, low gloss, soft hand feel), Modal, etc. For this reason, some people call the rayon with high gloss Bright Rayon (light filament), in order to distinguish it from Yass (Dull Rayon).

B. Synthetic fibers use simple organic compounds as raw materials to synthesize polymer compounds, and then process them into fibers through reeling. We commonly use the following types:

a. Nylon. Nylon is the first non-cellulosic fiber synthesized by chemical methods. From a chemical standpoint, nylon is just a general term for polymers (Polymers) synthesized from amides. Good resistance, long time exposure to sunlight, slightly reduced strength; good abrasion resistance; no shrinkage; no elongation, elastic, glossy; disperse dyes, acid dyes are used together, and the dyeing range is wide.

b. Artificial wool (Acrylic) is polyacrylonitrile (also known as acrylic), which is easy to accumulate static electricity, stable to weak acids and alkalis, and has good bleaching properties.

c. Polyester, that is, polyester fiber, can be classified as nylon, the most obvious feature is to keep creases, good blending with cotton or wool, soluble in concentrated H 2 SO 4 , not resistant to alkali Good; good resistance to bleaches, detergents, surface agents, friction and sunlight; no shrinkage and elongation, easy to wash; poor perspiration absorption, easy to accumulate static electricity; can be dyed with dispersive dyes and color-developing dyes.

Textile fibers contain a certain amount of impurities, such as waxy substances on cotton and hemp fibers, nitrogenous substances, sericin in silk such as pigments and minerals, suet (dandruff) in wool, sheep sweat, weeds, etc. ; Oil stains in chemical fibers; In addition, there are some unsuitable fibers, such as the black hair in cashmere (Cashmere). Therefore, the fibers may have to go through many impurity removal processes before and after spinning, such as desizing of cotton, wool of wool Carbonization and weeding treatment. Some also screen fibers according to different character requirements to remove unqualified fibers.

Except for some to keep their original white (Raw white), most fibers need to be bleached (Bleach) or dyed (Dye) as required. Usually we call loose hair dyeing "Top dye". The effect of the agent will have different degrees of damage, the longer the action time, the more serious the damage, so it can be said that the deeper the dyeing, the more serious the damage to the fiber. In addition, some fibers have some special treatment, such as: cotton Mercerized treatment.

※ ※※ The shrinkage density of wool is in descending order: snow wool > wool > rabbit hair > hemp cotton > pure cotton > Qinglong > artificial wool .

Section 2 Yarn and thread

1. Different styles of wool:

Textile fibers must be spun into yarns or threads before they can be woven into various textiles. Wool mainly has the following styles:

A. Monofilament: It is a single filament of infinite length, such as a single light filament, a single nylon, etc.

B. Tow (Tow) A lot of long monofilaments are bundled together, but they are not twisted, and they are more common like chemical fibers, such as .300D 100%Rayon

C. Yarn (Spun yarn, Staple yarn) refers to the thin strands spun from fibers, generally spun from fibers above 1CM, such as 1/15 70% Angora 30% Nylon.

D. Twisted yarn; it is made of two or more single yarns or silks combined and twisted. Such as 2/30 100% Viscose,

2/32 100% High Twist Cotton etc .

E In addition, there are some special styles of wool, such as Boule, , Velvet (Chenille), Mole yarn, Tape yarn, Fancy yarn, knot Slub yarn etc.

The above-mentioned splicing yarn needs to be twisted, and the degree of twisting is called twist (Twist). The twist refers to the average number of twists per unit length. The higher the twist within a certain range, the greater the strength of the thread.

2. The method of expressing the thickness of the wool yarn: There are two methods for the quantitative method of the thickness of the yarn: the fixed-length system and the quantitative method:

A. The fixed-length unit means the weight of the yarn or thread per unit length, such as a. The tex (tex) means: how many grams per 1 kilometer of wool (g/km), such as: 5 tex (per 1 kilometer The wool has 5 grams); b. Denier means: how many grams per 9000 meters of wool (g/ 9000m), such as 300D (300 grams per 9000 meters of wool), but Neil is mostly used for Reeled silk (such as nylon, light silk), the larger the tex or denier, the thicker the yarn.

B. The meaning of the quantitative measurement unit is; the length of the yarn or thread per unit weight, such as the number of counts we commonly use (COUNTS), but the number of counts is different from the metric system and the imperial system: Metric Counts (Metric Counts) means: per 1 kilogram The number of kilometers (km/kg) of the yarn is expressed as 1/15 (single strand of 15), 2/30 (represents a thread twisted by 2 strands of 30-count yarn, read as 2 strands of 30 Branch), 1/15 is actually the same thickness as 2/30.

The meaning of English Counts is: how many 840 yards per 1 pound of wool (yard is the British length unit) [( 840yd ) /b], that is: 1 English count = 840yd /b, 5 English counts = 5X 840yd /b= 4200yd /b; The representation method is 32/2 (representing a thread made of 2 strands of 32-count yarn twisted, read as 32-count double). No matter it is metric or inch, the larger the count, the Indicates the finer the yarn.

The exchange relationship of the above units is as follows:

1 metric branch = 1.7 imperial branch; 1tex=1000 metric branch; 1D=9000 metric branch; 1 imperial branch = 0.59 metric branch

※ ※ Please pay special attention to the different ways of reading and writing between metric and inch branches. Don't make a mistake!

3. Types of wool yarn:

The first section has mentioned a variety of fibers used in textiles. Even if the fibers of the same composition are processed differently, wool yarns with different properties can be obtained, plus different compositions are added together in a certain proportion to blend (Blended) into a variety of wool yarns, making the varieties of wool yarns rich and diverse. Here are some commonly used wool materials for your reference:

21/2 100% Carded cotton (without 21/2) 20/2 100% Combed cotton (without 20/2)

32/2 100% Combed cotton 32/2 100% High Twisted Cotton

40/2 100% Mercerized cotton 1/2.5 100% cotton(tape yarn) cotton wool

21/2 55%Ramie 45%Cotton Cotton and Linen Blend 1/14 60%Linen 40%Cotton

2/30 100% Merino Wool 2/48 100% Extra Fine Merino Wool

2/48 100% Merino wool(Anti-pilling)

1/16 100% Lambswool 2/9 100% Soft wool

2/9 100% Shetland wool 2/11 100% Alpaca ( Alpaca )

2/26 100% Cashmere Cashmere (Cashmere) 2/60 100% Spun Silk

2/17 100% Silk 1/15 70% Lambswool 20% Angora 10% Nylon

1/15 70%Angora 30%Nylon 300D 100%Rayon filament (150D is also common)

2/30 100% (High twisted) Viscose twisted silk (Rayon and Viscose actually refer to the same ingredient, except that Rayon is American spelling, and Viscose is British spelling)

2/30 100% Dull Rayon Dull 120DX2 100% (Bright) Viscose (two strands of 120D light yarn are twisted, ie 240D)

2/28 100%Acrylic Faux Fur 1/1.8 100%Polyester Polyester

1/10 100% Nylon Nylon 70D 100% Nylon

2/28 50% Acrylic 50% Wool 2/50 60% Rayon 40% Cotton

metal wire

When we mean wire, we usually mean Lurex. Lurex is a trade name for wire produced by a company in the United States. The production method is as follows: use a polyester film as the middle layer, spray the upper and lower sides with vaporized aluminum (Vaporized aluminum) in a vacuum, apply a colored adhesive, and add a transparent layer. Polyester, but also fiber acetate, is finally cut into filaments. The bleaching of metal threads is the same as that of wool, and hydrogen peroxide should be used. Disperse dyes will make the metal thread speckle. The metal thread Lurex we use refers to the polyester film obtained by the above method and then blended with VISCOSE, such as: 110D 100% Lurex (its composition is actually 66 %Viscose 34% Metallic yarn (Polyester)

※※ Pull frame

The bridle hair we use is a very small transparent core (CORE) thread, wrapped with nylon, and the core thread is an elastic rubber root, also called rubber fiber. The elasticity becomes weak, and the rubber roots are easy to break, so try to avoid buckling. The composition of the pull frame is Nylon/Lycra, of which "Lycra" is produced by DuPont in the United States

The brand name of a kind of elastic fiber, its common name is Spandex. Spandex contains at least 85% Polyurethane (Polyurethane), Spandex fiber may turn gray after repeated washing or oxide corrosion and sunlight, and the other oxidants can damage Spandex, so avoid using hypochlorite when bleaching, you can use sodium perborate instead. The dyeing is the same as wool and nylon.

There are many models of pull frames, such as the most commonly used pull frames of the 2070 system. The pull frames of the 2070 series can be divided into high elastic (High power), middle power (Middle power), and low elastic (Low power) according to their elasticity.

High elastic N2070 Lycra (77D(1/116)92%Polyamide(Nylon)8%Lycra(Elastane))

Shot WL2070 Lycra (83D(1/109)85%Nylon 15%Lycra)

Low bounce L2070 Lycra (84D(1/107)84%Nylon 16%Lycra)

4. Color of wool:

A: Melange yarn: A yarn that is spun evenly by several fibers of different shades or colors. The fibers of this type of yarn are loose-dyed.

B: Solid wool : The fiber of the wool is a single color. The fibers of this kind of yarn may be dyed loose wool; it may also be dyed after spinning the yarn (Yarn dye), such as the dyeing of yarn by yarn (Cone dye).

C: Color-blocked wool: A thread made of 2 or more yarns of different colors twisted.

D: Yarns of other colors and patterns, such as a section of a yarn that is dark in color, and a section of light in color, etc.

5. English-Chinese comparison of other nouns related to wool:

Acetate Acetate Fiber Fatty Acid Fiber Aino (Angora/Cashmere) Danu (Rabbit/Cashmere) Alpaca Alpaca Aristocrats soft Shetland Ashland British Wool Cotton Slub Nip Cotton

Caledonia Wool Cotton Cord

Daino(Angora/Cashmere) Dainotinto(Angora/Cashmere) Dainotinto(Angora/Cashmere)

Extra fine Geelong Lambswool Metallic/Lurex Yarn Metallic Wire Micro Fiber Polyamide=Nylon Amine Polyurethane Polyurethane

Rayon Tape Light Ribbon Smiling yarn Crepe yarn Super Fine

Supima Cotton Snow cotton Super soft Shetland Sea island cotton

Marl cotton Teviot Wool Viscose Twisted silk Washable wool Washable wool

Woollen wool Worsted Lambswool Yarn count

Yarn ends Yarn twist Yarn twist Cotton Tape